During a visit to the Asian Women’s Resource Centre in February 2025, Queen Camilla debuted a new brooch from her collection – the 1902 Coronation brooch.
The brooch is designed in a stylised, looping ‘1902’ design, the year of the coronation of Edward VII, almost resembling a heart. The numbers are set with pearls, thought to symbolise the coronation – pearls are used throughout the Crown Jewels. Atop we see a red enamel crown, which signifies royal authority, and is seen on many official designs like the royal coat of arms and on post boxes with ciphers.
A closer look at the 1902 Coronation Brooch. (Lay’s Auctioneers)
Measuring approximately 2.7cm wide x 3cm, the brooch is fairly delicate, and is made from gold and enamel, the pearls being a typical decoration for Edwardian jewellery.
This historic brooch, a presentation piece from the coronation of Edward VII, is a lovely example of Art Nouveau craftsmanship, defined by fluid, organic forms and delicate ornamentation, with a royal connection to boot. As a royal presentation piece, it was likely gifted to select members of the Royal Family or individuals involved in the coronation celebrations.
The Edwardian period also saw a transformation in royal jewellery, with a preference for lighter, more delicate pieces, moving away from the heavier Victorian styles. The use of seed pearls in the brooch aligns with this shift, as they were favoured for their soft lustre.
This might seem an odd choice to bring back to an engagement that has no links to Edward VII, but the stylised writing of the numbers mean on first glance, it’s not instantly recognisable as reading 1902 – it can be seen as simply looping writing.
Another thought is that the piece is a family heirloom: Alice Keppel was a long-time mistress of the King’s for years before his coronation. Was this a personal gift to her? It is after all, almost heart shaped, and Alice was at the coronation, so this isn’t a stretch to believe it stayed in the family and made its way to her great-granddaughter, Queen Camila…
